A Beginner’s Guide to Iloilo Street Food
6:07 AM
I’VE always brought it upon
myself to ask the hard-hitting questions ¬– Where’s the best place to enjoy
skewered, grilled meat? Who sells the best bibingka in the city? What should
try if I’m
craving for the traditional lumpia but want to be adventurous?
Mainly though, I ask myself: If I had to give my culinary
hero, Anthony Bourdain, a unique tour around the city, where would I take the
king “no reservations” dining? With much pondering and self-questioning, I’ve
come up with this short itinerary.
Betamax and Isaw at Don
Benito
It’s always bothered me a bit that no one thought it macabre
to sell grilled entrails and congealed blood in front of one of the busiest
hospitals in the city. It’s almost the perfect set-up for a 80s aswang movie or
a 00s zombie thriller, pending a cast of hapless victims. Admittedly, the
morbid thought has done very little to dissuade my appetite.
A one stop shop for those craving any form of skewered meat,
this go-to spot for hungry students and hospital workers alike has taught us
that there’s no experience quite like eating rice from a cellophane bag while
biting grilled pieces of tocino from a stick.
My personal favorites are of course Isaw and Betamax, which for those unfamiliar with street food jargon are chicken intestines impaled on a stick and the blood drained from dead livestock cut into cubes, respectively. Have fun pretending you’re the newest addition to the Walking Dead lineup, all the while satisfying your carnivorous hunger with the reassuring thought of being just a short walk away from an operating room.
Bangus Lumpia at Molo Plaza
I admit I can often be melodramatic, but in no way am I over
exaggerating when I say that trying the bangus lumpia at Molo Plaza is a
life-changing experience.
Growing up preferring red bloody cuts of meat and averse to the charms of Milk fish chanos chanos, biting into this underappreciated treat makes me question where I lie on the vegetarian-pescatarian-carnivore scale. Located on street corner between Molo Supermart and the old Andoks Mandokan, this hidden gem remains unheard-of to most Ilonggos.
A new spin on the classic Filipino dish, this lovely creation
takes the crispy wrapper of the lumpia we’ve grown to love and fills it with a
generous helping of fresh and perfectly-season bangus. It offers melt in your
mouth richness that you would not usually expect of street food and at ten
pesos for three pieces, it’s a hunger-satisfying bargain.
Jo Ann’s Fishball
There’s no other street food in Iloilo City as worshipped and
well-loved as Jo Ann’s fishball. Ask any respectable foodie or culinary expert
in the city, they will surely be familiar with this local delicacy. Also found
at Molo Plaza, but now with a satellite branch along Jalandoni Street in Jaro.
Where do I apply for a franchise, right?
The many disciples of the famous Ilonggo fishbolan will fawn of its bountiful use of real fresh fish flakes, its unparalleled taste and crunchy exterior, but for me it’s main draw is its sauces tailor-made for any and all taste buds. With four dip options ranging from the traditional sweet to teary-eyed spicy, Jo Ann’s fishball has got your back… your stomach.
Mix and match all you like. I, for one, dip according to my
mood. Looking for a sweet and salty ending to your fun and productive day? Opt
for sauce #1, rich and flavorful. Want to recreate the Cannes-winning
performance of Jaclyn Jose at the end of Ma Rosa? Brave on-fuego sauce numero
quatro and let those tears fall.
Bingkahan sa Mohon
“How about dessert?” asks our hypoglycemic friend at one
corner. Don’t worry, we haven’t forgotten about you, don’t call your
hematologist just yet. If our three other efforts in culinary exploration have
yet to fill your gut to maximum, we have a treat for you.
The bibingka – why let this beloved Filipino kakanin,
synonymous with Christmas and Simbang Gabi, be relegated to just the yuletide
season when you can enjoy it all year round. Undoubtedly, the best bibingka in
town can be found in Mohon, in a small pop-up stall run by the same family since
the early 50s.
Smooth and milky, comparing the bingka of Bingkahan sa Mohon
to the half-burnt frisbees sold in-front of most churches would be sacrilege.
Made from only the best ingredients, its silky texture and rich sweetness makes
it a sought after dessert, beckoning customers to buy whole plates, rendering
this Ilonggo delicacy hard to come-by and almost a rare find. But remain
patient and vigilant and you’ll get to savor its matchless taste.
Alas, there’s many more I’d like to add to this list, the
mouth-challenging turons near Amigo Mall, the original unpretentious Popoy’s
batchoy at the Iloilo Central Market, not to mention the wonders of boiled eggs
coated in generous helpings of batter.
What with the landscape of Iloilo City’s streets changing
every day, there’s always a new food crawl just a short walk away.
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